I moved to Los Reartes with more doubts than certainties. I had a baby on the way, and I was leaving behind the city where I grew up — a city I hold dear. But I understood that life is movement, change, adaptation… And so I asked myself: why not?
And although it was not easy, little by little, the trails, the riverfront and the sunsets over the mountains won me over. The views of the sierras from my window and the new friends I made cemented my love for this corner of Córdoba (Argentina) that is now my home.
So here is my small but heartfelt tribute.
Los Reartes is one of those towns where life moves at a slower rhythm. There are no traffic jams, no honking, and no chaos typical of big cities.
In this town, the streets are dirt roads (except for the main avenue), tree-lined and with more or less steep slopes, typical of mountain villages.
Its backbone is the river from which the village takes its name, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful in Córdoba. It is this calm and crystal-clear river that is the main reason why families, couples and groups of friends travel many kilometers to spend a few days away from their routines.
Los Reartes on the Map: Privileged Location in Calamuchita
Let’s move to practical matters. Los Reartes is located in the Calamuchita department, in the province of Córdoba, in the heart of the Argentine Republic. As a proud native of Córdoba, I have always marveled at everything our province has to offer. It is no wonder we are among the most visited provinces in the country, and Calamuchita often attracts a large share of tourists.
Located about 90 km from Córdoba city, Los Reartes is the perfect getaway from the capital.
Río Cuarto, the second largest city in the province, is about a two-hour drive away. And just 10 minutes by car, you find Villa General Belgrano, a small city or a large town, call it what you will, which is the epicenter of tourism in Calamuchita.
La Cumbrecita, a pedestrian-only village everyone should know, is just 32 km away along a scenic route that invites you to stop for photos. Meanwhile, other important points in the province, such as Carlos Paz or Alta Gracia, are just over an hour away.
The distance, combined with the possibility of traveling most of the way by highway and the good condition of the roads, ensures that Los Reartes has a strategic position within the province and the Calamuchita Valley.
The “Pueblo Patrio” of the Calamuchita Valley
The Creole identity that defines Los Reartes earned it the title of “Pueblo Patrio” in 2006. Its colonial mansions, many repurposed into restaurants, cobblestone streets, and adobe walls speak to more than 300 years of history in this mountain refuge.
The Inmaculada Concepción Chapel, in the historic center, dates back to 1816 and is the oldest in Calamuchita. Built by the townspeople themselves, it is made of adobe and preserves its colonial tiles, wooden doors, and an arch framing the entrance. It is a source of pride for Los Reartes and an architectural relic of the valley.
Another colonial jewel is the Pulpería Don Segundo Sombra, whose origins date back to 1929. Once the first business in Los Reartes, today it is a meeting point for locals. If you visit the town, stepping through its old doorway is almost a must. You will find original furniture, a counter straight out of another era, and décor honoring the village’s Creole identity.
The historic center of Los Reartes will take you back in time, while the surroundings are a true invitation to disconnect, rest, and keep falling in love with Córdoba.
A Wide Range of Opportunities
Los Reartes has a great deal to offer. For residents, it means quality of life. For visitors, it’s the chance to spend a few days away from the hustle of big cities.
But that’s not all — the town also has a good range of accommodations (mostly cabin complexes), restaurants, riverfront bars, supermarkets, shops, ice cream parlors, and more.
Los Reartes is well prepared for tourism. In summer or on long weekends (or holidays), there are free cultural events, children’s shows, artisan fairs, guided walks, stargazing events, and family-oriented activities.
The Los Reartes River deserves its own chapter. It originates at the foot of Cerro Negro and empties into the Los Molinos reservoir, where it meets the Río del Medio. Together with the San Pedro and Los Espinillos rivers, they feed this huge reservoir, the second largest in Córdoba.
Along its course, the Los Reartes River offers sandy beaches and rocky areas for adventurous exploration.
A tip: the Ibachume trail, a 6 km round trip, follows the Los Reartes River until it meets the Río del Medio. This walk winds through natural viewpoints with beautiful mountain scenery throughout. It is not very difficult and can be enjoyed by families.
For families traveling with small children, the Los Reartes River is ideal, with shallow water and no current. For those of us who like to swim, in certain sections, natural pools form, perfect for a refreshing swim.
The Yucac trail, in the Capilla Vieja neighborhood, leads to a spot where the river forms a large pool about three meters deep. The surrounding pine forests lend a special character to the landscape, much like the famous Tannenwald campground, which is perfect for those who enjoy traveling with their tent.
Along the entire riverfront, there are grills, shaded areas, and river bars with full services. Just show up with your beach chair, put your feet in the water, and soak in the surroundings.
Of course, during January (especially weekends), there is plenty of movement. But if you dare to explore a little, you will surely find a quieter spot to peacefully rest. And if you come in autumn or spring, the village will treat you to amber and russet foliage and blooming trees.
Boutique wineries, lavender fields perfuming the air, a sparkling wine winery tucked among pine groves… Los Reartes has it all to captivate both visitors and those who decide to stay.
This historic little town will welcome you with open arms, just as it welcomed me and many others who came to understand that true luxury is living simply, surrounded by nature and tranquility.
