Mid-1990s. Night falls early in Edinburgh, and a young mother arrives at a café called The Elephant House to escape the cold.
She sits by one of the large heaters in the café, looking out the window, from where she can see Greyfriars Cemetery and, in the distance, the magnificent George Heriot, one of the city’s most exclusive schools. The young woman takes out her notebook and begins to write, wrapped in a magical atmosphere, while her baby sleeps peacefully, safe from the cold.
That woman was none other than J.K. Rowling, who would soon become the most popular and wealthiest author in the world thanks to the Harry Potter series.
When she wrote the first book, Rowling lived in the Scottish capital, in a tiny flat without heating. That’s why she would go to different cafés each afternoon to escape the cold while writing a story about wizards, fantastical creatures, and adventures at a magical school.
Edinburgh served as inspiration for the author, and to this day, the city proudly wears its Harry Potter legacy in every corner.
Edinburgh, a Source of Inspiration
Rowling has never hidden how deeply Edinburgh inspired her to write at least the beginning of the saga of the most famous wizard in modern literature.
The author lived in the city for several years and drew inspiration from various places in its beautiful Old Town, the historic part of the capital, to build the magical world.
We’ve already mentioned George Heriot, a striking building originally founded as a school for orphaned boys, now a rather elitist private school where students are divided into four houses. Sound familiar?
George Heriot was undoubtedly an inspiration for the house system at Hogwarts, although it’s not the only school with a similar structure.
Right next to this huge school is Greyfriars Cemetery, which Rowling also frequented for inspiration. Wandering among the tombs, she found names that would later appear in the story, such as McGonagall and Tom Riddle himself, whose gravestone is now one of the most visited in this remarkable cemetery.
The place is fascinating, attracting both die-hard Potterheads and fans of the paranormal, as it is considered one of the most haunted places in Edinburgh.
We leave Greyfriars and head up through Grassmarket in search of the Royal Mile, the cobbled main artery of Edinburgh that leads up to the iconic castle. To get there, we wind our way through a beautiful, curved alley filled with striking shops.
Diagon Alley? Victoria Street has long been considered one of the great inspirations for that magical place, although Rowling has also said that the “real” alley is in London. Still, that hasn’t stopped all kinds of shops from leaning into the magical theme, including a two-story shop dedicated entirely to Harry Potter merchandise.
From Quidditch in the Meadows to the Balmoral Hotel Suite
South of the Old Town, slightly away from the center, lies a beautiful park called The Meadows, where locals go to make the most of the three or four sunny days they get each year.
It’s a spectacular spot for an autumn walk, where the ground is covered in fallen leaves. And with luck, you might even catch a practice session of the local Quidditch team, the Holyrood Hippogriffs.
No, we’re not joking. There are real teams that have taken inspiration from the magical sport Rowling created to invent a sport that gets as close to the real thing as possible. No flying brooms, of course, and they’ve renamed it Quadball to avoid copyright issues, but more and more fans are heading to The Meadows to enjoy some (almost) magical sport.
To finish our magical Potter tour of Edinburgh, we head back to the city center, crossing from the Royal Mile via North Bridge, to make one final stop at the Balmoral Hotel. Arguably the most prestigious accommodation in the Scottish capital, it’s named after the Queen’s legendary summer residence in Scotland.
It was here, in the best suite, that J.K. Rowling finished writing the final chapter of the last book in the series, “The Deathly Hallows.” The author was invited by the hotel’s management, knowing it would be invaluable publicity. And indeed, it was.
The author herself signed a bust that remains in the same room, but to see it, you’ll have to spend the night there—and it’s not exactly cheap. Got £1,000 to spare? Keep in mind, though, you’ll be staying in the very place where Rowling completed the story that has enchanted millions around the world.
Harry Potter and Edinburgh, a Very Special Bond
The city, known for its ghost stories and gruesome crimes, has embraced the Harry Potter connection wholeheartedly, making it practically a defining symbol of modern Edinburgh.
You’ll find Potter-themed gift shops all over Edinburgh, pubs and cafés inspired by the Wizarding World, and of course, many guided tours of the places we’ve mentioned — and others — where the magic of Potter lives on in Edinburgh.
Beyond the world of the boy who lived, the Scottish capital is a perfect spot for a weekend getaway.
It boasts a spectacular cultural and architectural heritage and maintains that mysterious, brooding atmosphere that makes it truly one of a kind.
Visiting the imposing castle after climbing the Royal Mile, delving into the mysterious underground passageways of Mary King’s Close, or climbing up Calton Hill for a sunset view are pleasures you’ll only find in Edinburgh—whether or not you’ve been sorted into a Hogwarts house.
