The majestic island of Sicily has always been shrouded in legends, rumors, and even some blush-worthy metaphors. If Italy is a boot, Sicily is that football being kicked from the mainland—an island that has become a favorite for travelers seeking something different in Italy. And they certainly find it, especially when they head north to the mysterious, now-abandoned Abbey of Thelema, keeper of a dark tale from a century ago.
Thelema and the Only Law of Aleister Crowley
For those unfamiliar, Aleister Crowley was a renowned occultist and mystic of the early 20th century—a man some regarded as a messiah, and others simply as a madman.
Adopting the nickname The Beast 666 didn’t exactly do him any favors. Still, Crowley became wildly popular in his time, and after his death, his influence lived on—appearing in music albums and pop culture films. His face is on the cover of The Beatles’ iconic Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. Pepper’s, and he was the inspiration for Ozzy Osbourne’s classic track Mr. Crowley.
Raised in a strict Christian household, Crowley eventually rejected that path, feeling it lacked spiritual depth. Instead, he began crafting his own doctrine, drawing on secret societies and mystical traditions from around the world.
According to his memoirs, he had a revelation in Cairo, where a demon named Aiwass dictated The Book of the Law to him, the foundation of his philosophical system. If that belief could be summed up in one line, it would be:
“Do what thou wilt shall be the whole of the Law.”
By the early 1900s, Crowley had begun attracting a circle of devoted followers—people willing to pay to study under him. So he set out to create a center where they could study The Law and give free rein to their most unbridled instincts.
Upon arriving in Cefalù, northern Sicily, he fell in love with a small one-story house perched on a hill. It wasn’t much, but the surrounding land could accommodate his closest disciples. And thus, the Abbey of Thelema was born.
A Past Cloaked in Darkness
To attract followers, Crowley leaned into one of his greatest talents: spinning captivating tales.
He claimed the site had been desecrated centuries ago, and that witches had been executed on the very grounds where the abbey now stood. His devotees found this irresistible—though the promise of drugs and sexual freedom probably helped.
Between 1920 and 1923, Crowley lived in this Sicilian retreat alongside several loyal disciples who paid regular fees to learn from him. Mornings began with sun salutations, picking fruit, and tending the nearby garden, followed by yoga sessions.
But when night fell, the community surrendered to excess: alcohol, hallucinogens, and uninhibited sex. Some might call it paradise—until tragedy struck.
In 1923, a young follower named Frederick Charles Loveday died suddenly at Thelema. His companion blamed Crowley, accusing him of forcing Loveday to drink the blood of a sacrificed cat.
Crowley denied it—and for once, his account may have been more credible. He claimed the young man contracted typhoid fever after ignoring his warning and drinking from a contaminated spring. Loveday’s companion returned to England and told her story to every tabloid that would listen.
News of Thelema’s orgies and rituals soon reached Benito Mussolini, ever the “champion of freedom,” who decided the cult had no place in Italy.
Crowley and his followers were expelled. The abbey was abandoned. Its obscene murals—painted in the style of Paul Gauguin—were covered, and over time, Crowley’s legacy faded in Cefalù.
A Strangely Resurrected Figure
Aleister Crowley died in 1947, far from the fame and notoriety he once enjoyed.
But it wasn’t long before pop culture icons began reviving his memory and building a strange, near-obsessive cult around his legacy. Pop culture recast Crowley as a liberator and symbol of rebellion against the rigid morality of the mid-20th century.
One of his most loyal admirers was British filmmaker Kenneth Anger, known for his provocative, experimental films. Anger even traveled to Cefalù to visit the crumbling Abbey of Thelema and managed to clean sections of the wall to film what remained of the obscene murals.
Through Anger, Crowley’s cult found new followers — Mick Jagger, members of The Beatles, and others drawn to the occult.
Crowley also cast a long shadow over the early heavy metal scene. We’ve already mentioned Ozzy Osbourne’s tribute. But few were as consumed as Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page, who bought one of Crowley’s former homes in Foyers, near Loch Ness. Legend has it that Page would wander the grounds at night wearing Crowley’s robe, trying to summon his spirit.
Later, the band was plagued by so many tragedies that people began calling them “cursed.” Though of course, the Crowley cult connection probably wasn’t to blame.
Thelema’s Shadow Lingers in Sicily
To this day, the Abbey of Thelema remains a pilgrimage site for Crowley devotees—a kind of Mecca for those drawn to his teachings.
Traveling to Sicily is always a good idea, but if you’re looking for beauty, mystery, and history, we recommend other stops like Taormina, or the capital Palermo — places with a bit more to offer than a crumbling relic of a dark past.
